GALLERY

Modifications and Add-ons

I was pretty discouraged to see such small gauge wires feeding the entire trailer, especially given the distance from the batteries to the converter, which is in the rear under the kitchen. I’m sure calculations were done and from an engineering standpoint, the gauge is sufficient, but even under a small load, I was seeing a more-than-one-volt drop between the batteries and the distribution panel.

I was also dismayed to see all the connections going through one tiny post on the 30 amp circuit breaker, which was already starting to corrode.

With this in mind, I did the following:

Installed two heavy duty buss bars to distribute the current. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XCMC2T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ran 4 gauge cable from the batteries to the buss bars. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J4305NK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Replaced the circuit breaker with a resettable, waterproof, 30 amp breaker https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DIGK346/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On my last trailer, my WFCO converter trashed my batteries in just a few years. Then, after I replaced my batteries, the converter itself went bad. After much research, I replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power Converter with Charge Wizard. I discovered how much more efficient it was, and how much better it maintained my batteries. So when I bought my Imagine, rather than watch a pair of batteries get trashed again, I replaced the converter right away.

Warning: This mod takes some electrical experience to tackle. The instructions are pretty clear, but if you are hesitant to work with both 12V and 120V, please have an electrician with RV experience do this for you.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OR4242/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As I was rewiring/re-routing my battery cables, I opened the junction box with all the pigtail wiring in it. It was a jumble of wires and wire nuts. I’m sure it was suitable and would work just fine, but I decided if there was a short, I’d rather it blow a fuse on the trailer rather than on my truck. With that in mind, I bought a fused distribution box and a project box to mount it on, and rewired all the connections that were jammed in that junction box. Everything is waterproof (unlike that junction box).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N25TJV3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWZ2FOH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I only camp at sites that have no hook-ups, and I like to watch TV during “quiet hours”, so I needed an inverter.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007KDDSXQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I mounted it on the front wall of the pass-thru and ran 8 gauge cables to my buss bars directly beneath. I installed a 50 amp resettable circuit breaker in line (600 watts/120 volts * 12 volts =60 amps, but my current draw is only about 250 watts, so 50 amps is sufficient).https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F76VJKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since the only thing I need to run with my inverter is my TV and Wally receiver, I ran PVC conduit (Home Depot) from the pass-thru and inverter along the outer frame to the slide, where I used the existing wire loom to run the wire into the slide. I used an outdoor, 14 gauge extension cord for the 120V wiring, disconnected the TV outlet from the trailer circuit and wired the inverter directly into the TV outlet. Yes, I can only use the TV with the inverter, but that isn’t a problem; if I have hookups, it’s charging my batteries anyway.

I like to keep track of what’s going on with my systems, so I installed these meters in the panel above the converter and drawers to the left in the kitchen.

The AC monitor is just a simple, inexpensive monitor to watch my generator output. You can use it to monitor watts and amps, too, but I only use it for voltage. I removed the drawers and tapped into one of the breakers on the AC distribution panel.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0744CCGT4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The middle monitor is for my LP tanks. Simple installation, and it seems to be pretty accurate. At the time, Camping World had the best price for a dual tank system. It’s entirely battery operated and uses Bluetooth technology, so there’s no wiring needed.

https://www.campingworld.com/mopeka-tankcheck-lpg-tank-check-dual-sensor-with-monitor-kit

The monitor on the right is a Victron BMV-702 Battery Monitor. I allows me to monitor voltage, amps, watts, % of charge and more. It’s imperative if you want to be sure you don’t drop below a 50% charge,

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJ85E2U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like the idea of having a remote controlled ceiling vent, so I installed two Maxxair fans; one in the kitchen and one in the bedroom. The kitchen install was easy since the wiring was already there. The bedroom was more of a challenge. I looked and probed and tried to fish power from anywhere I could find it. I ended up tapping into the bathroom vent fan for power, but that meant disabling the wall switch for the bathroom fan. I fished the wires through the ceiling to the bedroom vent and that was that. If you follow the instructions with the fan, and make sure you have some butyl tape and plenty of self-leveling sealant on hand, it’s not a difficult installation. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YJIDW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While I was on the roof, I added a cover to the bathroom vent. It doesn’t rain a LOT in Nevada, but when it does, it’s nice to be able to keep the air flow going. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OWCLNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know that if someone wants to get in your storage areas, they’re going to, regardless of the locks. But if, like me, you don’t want to carry keys around, this mod is for you. Easy to install with just a screwdriver and adjustable wrench, and you can program your own code for easy recall. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W7GC5S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Flat screen TV’s are notorious for their horrible sound systems. To get some of that back, I bought a sound bar with a wireless subwoofer. I installed the sound bar below the TV using racks intended just for that purpose. I had to modify the racks slightly by drilling holes to fit both the TV bracket and soundbar, but it looks good and raises and lowers with the TV. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNZ2N4H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GUIEFJC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I learned with my last trailer, what a pain it was to take the drain plug out every time I wanted to drain the water heater. I removed the original plug, installed a ½” nylon nipple, and bought a 1/2” X 3/8” water supply line as well as a 3/8” shutoff valve. Open the valve and voila, the tank drains. Be sure you don’t use a brass or iron nipple to connect your supply line; unlike metals don’t play well together.

I have a bad habit of going outside and leaving the lights on when I come back in. I had some 12V LED’s laying around, so I installed one below the switch on the control panel. Just attach the positive lead to the switched side of the rocker switch and the negative lead to one of the ground wires behind the panel.

The only place I could find for a wastebasket was in the cabinet to the left of the sink. To make it easier to get to, I installed this wastebasket slide from Home Depot. I can’t find a link to it, but you can find it in the storage aisle. I cut a piece of plywood to the size of the bottom of the cabinet and finished it with Minwax ebony stain and Krylon clear spray. This was needed so the slide would clear the lip of the cabinet frame.

You always need somewhere to hang your hat… Command strip coat hooks in brushed nickel from Home Depot.

I don’t like reaching into a drawer full of sharp knives, so I mounted this knife holder on the wall beside the stove. It adheres with some pretty heavy duty double-sided tape, and it’s not coming off the wall. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BBP8FLQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shower mods include an Oxygenics shower head – a great mod if you haven’t tried it - and various Command strip accessories; shelf for shampoo/body wash and shaving cream, a shaving mirror, and command hooks for a bodywash net.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F5MU5YY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I empty my waste tanks at home, using a macerator pump and 7/8” hose to a sewer clean-out. That way, I can take my time dumping and flushing the tanks, and I don’t have to worry about other campers waiting for me, nor paying the dump fees at the campgrounds I go to. It also makes it easy to dewinterize in the spring.

To power the pump I needed a 20 amp circuit that’s readily available without having to take off the battery covers. I was going to use the solar power outlet on the side of the trailer, but it states that it will only handle 10 amps. So I bought a two-pole power plug/outlet, mounted it above the inverter on the front pass-thru wall, snaked the wires behind the panel to the bottom, and tapped into the inverter power posts. I wired the plug end to a 14 gauge extension cord and the other end to my macerator pump.

https://smile.amazon.com/CNLINKO-Industrial-Circular-Connector-Waterproof/dp/B0795464LP/ref=pd_cp_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0795464LP&pd_rd_r=e522a4b3-6154-11e8-bf8e-eb3c744d8fe4&pd_rd_w=IDfRo&pd_rd_wg=2exkI&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=80460301815383741&pf_rd_r=PMPS5DQ8131TSEA9PKAQ&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=PMPS5DQ8131TSEA9PKAQ

I really don’t like having to carry a key for the trailer around – I have enough keys on my ring already. Enter the RVLock… A 10 minute install, and keys are a thing of the past. I did have to use the original screws on the install as the ones sent with the RVLock seemed to be too long. If you’re diligent, you can find these on sale. I didn’t install one on the bedroom door since I never use that door. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N58KQMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Because the RVLock is a little deeper than the original, the magnetic latch isn’t as reliable. I extended the magnet with 1 ½”Everbilt heavy duty anti-skid pads, available at Home Depot. I glued two of the pads back to back, drilled holes to line up with original magnet, and used ½” longer screws to re-attach the entire assembly to the trailer.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-Heavy-Duty-Anti-Skid-Surface-Pads-4-per-Pack-49645/203661093?keyword=everbilt+123904&semanticToken=21050+++%3E++++st%3A%7Beverbilt+123904%7D%3Ast++cn%3A%7B0%3A0%7D++everbilt+%7Bbrand%7D+123904+%7Brest%7D

I also installed this USB charger so I can charge my phone while I’m watching TV. I tapped into the 12V furnace line behind the panel at the back of the theater seats. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0794WMJ81/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The subwoofer wouldn’t fit in the cubby, like I planned, and I didn’t want it sliding around behind the seats, so I made a custom enclosure in the cubby. I dismantled the subwoofer and removed all the components. I made a front out of a piece of oak I had, finished it with Minwax ebony stain and Krylon clear spray, and mounted the speaker to the panel. It needed power to operate, so I installed a small inverter I had and tapped into the furnace power lines. (Remember, I like to watch TV during quiet hours, so I can’t run the generator.) I mounted a switch on the panel beside the seats so I can turn the inverter off when I’m not using it.

I really hated seeing my safety chains, power plug, and emergency brake cable just hanging all over the tongue. The simple answer was this organizer. Super simple to install, and it keeps everything up and off the ground and frame. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F9ILPTM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While I was at it, I bought the Breakaway cable for my emergency brake actuator. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VAX3IC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Because I’m a little obsessed, I didn’t like having a switch in the wall that didn’t do anything, so I found this replacement switch with a built in dimmer. It may not be entirely practical, but it does make it nice to turn on the lights in the middle of the night and not have them come on at full brightness.

https://www.ebay.com/i/173089602199?chn=ps

The kitchen cubbys are nice, but pretty useless as a spice rack, etc. To take care of that, I cut 1/8” X ½” slats from a piece of oak I had in my wood shop, finished them with Minwax ebony stain and Krylon clear spray and glued them to the inside of each cubby. Now the spice bottles stay in place while traveling.

Simple add-on for my Mag-Lite… No more looking in drawers for it; it’s hanging right by the rear door. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N9ER/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Deep cabinets are always a pain in the butt to get things out of the back. These slides were easy to install and let me store anything in the back and reach it easily. They fasten to the shelf at the bottom.

The screen door on most trailers is a little unwieldy, with no convenient place to open and close it without opening the slider. This door guard makes it much easier to open and close the screen door. I don’t recommend closing the entire door with this bar; there are only ½” screws attaching it, and the stiffness of the outer door might pull those tiny screws out. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012GTVVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought several bathroom accessories from Home Depot in brushed nickel to match, including a towel rod which I mounted to the sliding door, a towel ring mounted next to the medicine cabinet, a toilet paper holder, which I put inside the lower cabinet door, and a double hook for an extra towel.